Monday 28 August 2023

Never mind make do; mend and make beautiful

 





Don’t toss it out; make it wonderful. Don't hide it. Embellish it.  

"Japanese Aesthetics of Recycling,"  the current exhibition at the Brunei Gallery at SOAS, the University of London's School of Oriental and African Studies, may have a "let's be trendy" title but the show itself is beautiful, happy making and inspiring. When an object breaks; when fabric wears thin or holes grow, it isn't a disaster; these are not imperfections to be hidden (if your skills permit), it's not time for burial. It is an opportunity. 


 


 


   Make do and mend; wartime advice to the British at home was practical, economical and necessary--new shirts and frocks and shoes were not easy to come by. Yet it does sound as enticing as downing a tablespoon of cod liver oil: Good for you and punishing. These days, mending has been replaced by toss it away. But let's skip the blah blah blah about ours being a throwaway culture. Let's skip the moral tales and the claims that if we change our attitude to repairs, we will save the planet.  This is a celebration of the art that has been created by visibly repairing what people possessed. It is an expression of one aspect of a Japanese attitude to life. 

Obviously repairing is a necessity for people who don't have the money to replace what breaks, has been a feast for months or has worn out from long wear. (Exception here: male members of the British upper classes for whom wearing pullovers with holes prove that they are above such petty concerns. But that is another story.)  Bad enough that poverty is a disaster for health, deprives children of education and opportunities, forces people to remain in miserable or outright damaging domestic arrangements. We are taught that it is also  shameful. We in the  West we have been raised to feel mortified if we have to go around in clothing that, all too obviously, have been mended or serve our guests from stuck together again ceramic bowls.   If  precious memories are attached to an item, those or can will pay someone else a good deal of money to repair it ==in a manner that ensures that the "damage" doesn't show. Invisible mending is the ideal and it does not come cheap== nor do the services of ceramic restorers.

 This exhibition at the Brunei explodes shame and replaces with excitement. These bowls, kimono, net shirts, tabi shoes, futon coverings ==all of it has been mended, patched, glued so that it shows. And wouldn't you know in our crazy world, similar articles have become  sought after by collectors of contemporary art.  Probably they are more expensive now that brand new equivalents.   

 Forget the blah blah about ours being a throwaway culture and the virtues of mending socks when,  inevitably, they grow holes. Who knows how to darn any more? When was the last year--decade--that children were taught sewing in school?….So how about turning a few cogs in the brain and starting to think about mending in a new way. Admittedly, using gold or silver to mend broken ceramics is not a skill that is easily acquired. But anybody who can thread a needle (needle threating tools are cheap and easy to come by) can practice the Japanese craft-and art--of renewal, of re-creation. Oh and by the way, some branches of Uniglo are now offering a more limited version of just such a service--for products bought in their stores. Yes really. 

The show is free. It is on until September 23. It is a honey. If only there were a catalogue! I want to know about the Karun Thaker Collection of which all these treasures are a part. (His full collection is on deposit at the V&A.) 


   

Monday 31 July 2023

FRANCOISE GILOT INTERVIEW

The woman who walked out on Picasso










 



'No one leaves a man like me,' he raged. But Frangoise Gilot proved him wrong and, unlike several of his other women, emerged the stronger for it.



Paula Weideger met her    (Note:This first appeared in the Independent on the 13th of May, 1991.It is long; normal for the profiles I did for the paper. I have not edited out some remarks by me that reflect some of the snotty attitudes of younger women about older ones. They are minor nuisances --if also truths== in an extraordinary story. I hope that you make it to the end. She is worth it.)


A BEAUTIFUL woman in her twenties sashays along the beach, her shoulders back, arms swinging. The long skirt she wears is rippling in the wind. A fringed straw hat frames a proud face. "I-am-wonderful-and-so is-life," she smiles. Behind her strides a vigorous but much older man holding a sun umbrella over her head. He, too, looks delighted by love. But there is something mocking in his expression as well. Pablo Picasso may choose to play the courtier; let no one forget he IS king.

The woman in this now famous Robert Capa photograph is Francoise Gilot. She lived with Picasso, who was 40 years older and already acclaimed as perhaps the genius of the 20th century century, during the 10 years following the Second World War. To Picasso, women were either goddesses or doormats, Gilot has said. As the photograph shows, Gilot at that time was definitely a goddess. But by the time their second child had arrived he seemed to have confused the categories.



                [The Capa image will come when I work out how to get it on the page.]



In 1954, Francoise Gilot made it clear that she was not going to make a career as Pablo Picasso's doormat. Looking much older that her 31 years, exhausted by his duplicity and his tyranny, she took their son Claude and daughter Paloma, to Paris, leaving Picasso in the south of France.

   "No one leaves a man like me!" he cried.

    "Picasso was used to women being head over  heels in love with him," says Gilot, who although nearing 70, is exceptionally attractive. "But in terms of what you might call the type of men to whom I was attracted, he was not at all of that type." 

     It was his intelligence that seduced her. If her love was no less passionate than that of the other women who loved Picasso, it was, so to speak, more ambulatory.

   "Art was our link," Gilot observes. "I could go on liking Pablo's paintings from someplace else."

   Since several of Picasso's other women ended up in one or another version of a prison (his first wife Olga went mad; Marie Therese Walter and his widow, Jacqueline, both committed suicide; Dora Maar became a recluse), Gilot may well owe her freedom to the essentially intellectual nature of their bond. But this is by no means the whole explanation.


In "Life with Picasso," the best=selling memoir Gilot co-authored in 1964 (recently re_issued by Virago) and her recent book, Picasso and Mattise: A friendship in Art, Gilot who has been said to have total recall, recreates many of the conversations between the two men, each of whom sense that the other was perhaps his only equal. The book also shows the degree to which Picasso's subtle and complicated intelligence was not only visual--something that comes as a surprise.

   "In a way he preferred the myth that he was a Spanish bull and all instinct," Gilot laughs. "But with artists Or sitters he was extremely verbal. It's a side of him that's not so known." are many examples Of Gilot's considerable intelligence in these books well.

Francoise Gilot, the doted-on daughter Of an upper middle-class family, grew up in a large house near the Bois de Boulogne in Paris. She was taught at home by her cultivated parents and, before turning to painting. studied law. At 21. Gilot had her first exhibition; she has been showing and selling her work ever since.


Today, Gilot lives about five months of the year in La Jolla, California, the professional base Of Jonas Salk, developer of the polio vaccine and her husband for the past 20 years. Five months of the year she lives in New York.

The remainder are spent at her art deco studio in Montmartre, the current chic neighbourhood for Parisian intellectuals. Her studio is a few minutes' walk from the Bateau Lavoir, where Picasso first set up in Paris. Both are coincidences, Gilot says. She chose the neighbourhood "because I have allergies and it's above the smog".

The studio is white, spacious and spare. The only Picasso in sight is a "kisses" belt by Paloma that circles Gilot small waist. Black lacquered modem chairs upholstered in grey face a green and red patterned sofa. Long-stemmed pink roses fill a vase resting on an antique wooden table near a staircase. There is not a knick-knack to be seen.

Gilot, her black hair cut short and mixed with grey, is dressed in a style that is even more eclectic than her studio's decor. A long, red cashmere cardigan is wrapped and unwrapped as she talks, seemingly it is worn as much as an aid to expression as for warmth. Her trousers are black-and-white striped. A lifelong interest in oriental philosophy evidently has had a practical as well as a metaphysical effect; as she she has the litheness of a girl. Tennis shoes give a spring to her step. The shoes are mauve, as is the enormous stone in her ring. The ruffled collar of a blue -patterned blouse hides her neck (that telltale sing of ageing), and sets off of a face punctuated by those circumflex eyebrows so familiar from Picasso's portraits.

   Although not much more than five feet in height, Gilot gives the impression of being rather taller. This may have to do with her proportions; more likely it has to do with her presence. In person, as in her writing, Francoise Gilot demonstrates that even for a French-women, she is supremely self-possessed.


Ten dealers in almost as many countries arrange exhibitions for her around the world, yet in spite of this and her books, most people do not know her name when it is mentioned. But add, "You know, the woman who felt Picasso," and recognition follows.

 It would seem that to the public, Gilot hs remained a satellite of Picasso precisely because she had the strength, or nerve, to leave his orbit. How maddening she must find this, I thought. But not at all.

  "Well, its true," she says matter-of-factly. "It is like with my husband, Jonas. When people know only a little him, they say, "Ah, you developed the polio vaccine." But that's only one of the man things, he did in his life. It's like that for me. If it bothered me, it would be very unfortunate."

 Gilot who speaks fluent colloquial American but whose syntax, like her conceptual framework, remains French, elaborated.

   Maybe in the Middle Ages they burn me at the stake; now they don't. Women have something to say. I say it.  I am living my own life my own way."

  Is this defensiveness hiding behind an "I don't give a damn" mask? It would not be surprising, given what Gilot had to endure following he break-up with Picasso.

"The attacks from strangers, his colleagues and from friends sometimes bordered on the malevolent." They blamed her for abandoning "the genius."

  "If anyone should have felt guilty, it was him, Gilot says.


   Revenge seems to have been more in Picasso's line. He let it be known that anyone who exhibited Gilot's work was no friend of his. La Galloise, the house they had shared in Vallauris in the south of France, (and which was in her name), was stripped of all her possessions; pictures, letters, clothing--the works. But this was not the worst of it. 


Several months after Gilot returned to Paris, she met Luc Simon, a painter she had known in their student days. Within a year they married. A daughter was born whom they named Aurelia. (Now 34, she is an architect living in La Jolla, married and with a child of her own.) Less than six years later, under pressure from Picasso, Gilot filed for divorce from Simon. Picasso had made it a condition of granting legitimacy to Claude and Palamo that Gilot leave Simon and marry him. At first she resisted. Then she agreed. Early in 1961 divorce proceeding began. The children were given Picasso's name. And then, a few weeks later, she opened a newspaper and discovered that Pablo Picasso had just married Jaqueline Roque.  Meanwhile, however, Gilot's marriage to Simon had been so undermind by all this that their divorce went ahead.

 It is no wonder that Francoise Gilot has learnt to be on the lookout What is amazing is that she has not also become bitter. It is not bravado when she says she is happy with her lot.

It is a matter of choice," she explain s. "It's a mental attitude. You know that stupid line, 'is the glass half empty or half full?' I say it is half full.  Since I went through very difficult things in my life, if I'd had said the opposite, I'd have been in a lunatic asylum by now." 


There are some who call her arrogant because at times she seems to act as if her glass is not only half full but positively overflowing, as for instance, when she speaks as if she, Picasso and Matisse were equals. But at least this attitude gave her the courage to prevail. And surely that is preferable to the fact of others who loved and were loved by Picasso; the breakdowns, retreat from the world, suicides. 

Was this courageousness a matter of intellectual force rigorously applied--one of the extraordinary strengths of her character--or a mater of temperament, something in-built?something in-built?


"Well, you know, Gilot begins reflectively, "I remember, I think it was when I was about four or five years old. I was staying with one of my grandmothers.... My family thought they should do the Christmas trick and say that from the chimney, etcetera etcetera. But I had asked for a bicycle."

   Gilot then lowers here head and cranes her neck, mimicking herself at the age of five looking up into that fireplace. "I looked and looked and you know, that little hole...." She frowns. "I said to my grandmother, 'I know it won't come'  I would be so small that it won't really be a bicycle at all!"

On Christmas morning there was the bicycle. Full size.

¯That really amazed me," She recalls. "So I thought, 'Well if it happened one, it can happen again!' 

  Gilot. laughs. One sound ripples into another. At once round shapes, not previously visible, appear in her face. She looks a girl again, open and warm.

  "In a way, it is still in my attitude," she continues. "l am am always lucid. It's not that I'm optimistic. I'm not seeing everything all blue and pink. Not at all. But then, if a miracle happens, I say, well, why not many?"


This attitude does not mean that Gilot has lounged around waiting for miracles to happen. Hardworking and practical, she is also a feminist who believes women must take responsibility for themselves.

  "There was a confusion in the generations before," Gilot notes when talking about accomplished women of the past who rejected feminism. "They thought that if you identify yourself as woman you are a weaker person and that your work is going to be weaker." She adds — although by now her examp3e has made the statement redundant — "I don't believe that in the least.

"I see friends of mine," she says, "they and paint and paint and think the world is going  come and impress itself on them. No!" she says firmly. "That is not the case.

"0f course," she adds, "to do battle to be recognised is not pleasant. Personally I would rather be in my studio and paint. But you have to try to communicate with the public. And the only way to do that is through the dealers and critics. You have to interface, you know?"

The question is rhetorical.

  When Picasso finally understood that Gilot really was going, he save her a warning: "If you attempt to take a step outside my reality you're headed straight for the desert."

  It is an indication of Gilot's character (and the degree of her desperation at that time) that she preferred exile in the desert. "1 would see if could survive," she says.

She certainly has.






 







Wednesday 7 June 2023

The Woman who walked out on Picasso



Francoise Gilot (26 November 1921 – 6 June 2023)

Painter, Writer, Mother, Lover and The Woman who walked out on Picasso












I will post my interview with her in her Montmartre flat which ran in the Independent on 31 May 1991(!!) in which this image appeared as soon as I work out how to shrink the paper's then large format into readable size.  

 


Sunday 4 June 2023

A dream house revisited; Eileen Gray at Cap Moderne with some of my tech shortcomings visible, But scroll down, please and words and readable pictures will appear

 

ARCHITECTURE

Eileen Gray’s Famed Cliffside Villa in the South of France Is Returned to Its Modernist Glory

The main living area of E-1027, designed by Eileen Gray
The garden behind E-1027, Eileen Gray's whitewashed modernist house on the French Riviera.
A garden path runs along the northern side of E-1027 to the entrance. A glass enclosure on the roof protects the access to a spiral staircase. Top: The main room is furnished with Gray’s designs, including her BIBENDUM and TRANSAT chairs. Photos © Manuel Bougot

A narrow pebbled lane leads from Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, on France’s Côte d’Azur, to E-1027EILEEN GRAY’s now-world-famous first architectural work. On one side, the lane is hemmed in by the tracks of a little-used rail line; on the other there are fenced-off trees. Small gaps between their branches allow glimpses of the Mediterranean below.

I arrive, shoes dusty, at the metal gate to the property not knowing quite what to expect. Built between 1926 and 1929, E-1027 has been photographed abundantly, but buildings, like people, often look markedly different in person — and so it is here.

As soon as I walk down a few steps, a great adventure begins to unfold. The house, which seems to grow out of the rocks, reveals itself from the roof down. A circular glass “cabin” pokes up from an otherwise flat surface giving access to the roof from the tight spiral staircase that runs to the bottom of the house. This proves to be the first of the terraces that grace every level. The lowest one contains a sunken pool. Kept dry, it was intended not for splashing but for bathing in the sun’s rays.

The terraces and the house’s horizontal windows allow for a constant interplay between nature and the interior. I soon discover that these match each other in splendor. Even today, when superyachts are anchored in the blue and green water of the bay and Monte Carlo’s high-rises form a distant backdrop to the west, the setting remains idyllic.

I was attracted to Eileen Gray’s interior designs and curious about her rather mysterious life (she burned all her papers before her death), but I’d been unconvinced by MODERNIST architecture in general, finding it cold, even barren, with all that geometry and ideology. Within minutes of arriving, however, my conversion began. Here, modernism is transformed by her LYRICISM, WIT, ELEGANCE AND WARMTH. As her biographer and friend Peter Adam wrote in his 2009 biography, Eileen Gray: Her Life and Works, she “felt deeply the spirit of things and objects, reflecting and perfecting them until a chair or a table became the friend of man.”

A view of Eileen Gray's house situated along the rocky coast of the Baie de Roquebrune
E-1027’s southern face overlooks the Baie de Roquebrune. The colorful Holiday Cabins, designed by Le Corbusier, are perched farther up the cliff behind the villa. Photo © Manuel Bougot

Eileen Gray (1878–1976) had a privileged background. She grew up in Ireland and London, where she attended art school. Early in the 20th century, she visited Paris, and from 1907 on, it was her base.

Gray and ART DECO were made for each other, and three-dimensional decorative art became her métier. She mastered the DEMANDING TECHNIQUES of JAPANESE LACQUER, and soon her SCREENS and furniture were sought after by those with the taste to appreciate them and money enough to afford them. Hand-knotted rugs and furniture, from SOFAS and END TABLES to LAMPS, followed. In 1921, Gray opened a gallery to showcase her creations. She called it Jean Désert, believing that people would take her work more seriously if a man’s name was attached to it.

Eileen Gray, 1920s
Gray in the 1920s. Photo © National Museum of Ireland

The next two decades brought AN OUTPOURING OF CREATIVITY, as she glided from Deco to modernism, blazing a trail in parallel with MARCEL BREUER. Among her many emblematic pieces are two chairs very different in appearance but equal in their desirability: the sleek TRANSAT and the curvaceous BIBENDUM, both from the mid-1920s.

After World War II, fashion and clients moved elsewhere, but Gray was fortunate to live long enough to enjoy a revival. In the 1970s, exhibitions devoted to her work were mounted in Vienna, London and Boston, and design historians and avid collectors began making pilgrimages to her Paris apartment.

Renewed interest flushed out hidden treasures, and the market for her work began to build. She died before the historic 2009 YVES ST. LAURENT/Pierre Bergé auction in Paris, in which her Dragons armchair from 1917–19 fetched a stupendous $26 million (still a record price for a piece of 20th-century decorative art), and the long-overdue career retrospective at the POMPIDOU CENTER, in 2013. Now, another boost to the WIDESPREAD APPRECIATION OF HER ACHIEVEMENTS: the restoration of E-1027.

EILEEN GRAY’S FRENCH VILLA

The balcony of E-1027

A balcony runs nearly the full length of the villa’s southern facade, maximizing the getaway’s seaside views. Replicas of Eileen Gray’s marine-blue canvas sunbreakers and windscreens have been added. Photo © Manuel Bougot

The house is both sophisticated and cozy. Even its name, which I assumed was some sort of Euclidean code, proved to be a key that unlocks the love story between Gray and her much younger lover, architect and critic Jean Badovici, with whom she shared the home. (The letter E stands for Eileen; 10 for J, the 10th letter of the alphabet; 2 equals B, the second; and 7 equals G for Gray. Thus the name of the house represents Gray’s embrace of Badovici.)

By 1931, the affair over, she gave him the house and left. His great friend LE CORBUSIER became a frequent visitor and put his stamp on it — inside and out. E-1027 was soon plastered with his vividly colored murals. Then, in the 1950s, he built tiny, dark le Cabanon, a getaway for himself and his wife, adjacent to Eileen Gray’s masterpiece, and, literally just above it, a scheme of tiny hostels decorated outside in bright primary colors. Visitors to Cap Moderne can decide for themselves whether Gray inspired Corb to create these buildings or whether his actions were motivated by competitive aggression. If the latter, he did not obliterate the magnificence of what Gray achieved.

Her relationship with Badovici may have been tangled, even painful, but the house proclaims that it was no less passionate for that. Stand in the main bedroom, where everything seems sensuous, from the fur throw on the large bed to the way the mosquito netting is gathered at its head; walk into the large, open-plan living area, with its curved seating, round tubular glass-topped table and thick, soft CENTIMETRE RUG; visit the bathroom, with its large, now-iconic SATELLITE MIRROR, which allowed Badovici to shave the back of his neck as well as his cheeks. E-1027 was conceived as a love nest: imaginative, tender, amusing, incandescent.

A view of the sunbathing pool from the patio of Eileen Gray's house on France’s Côte d’Azur
Stairs on the western side of the villa lead to the lower garden and the solarium, conceived as a pool for sunbathing rather than swimming. Photo © Manuel Bougot

Thanks to the restoration performed by the not-for-profit CAP MODERNE ASSOCIATION, the nearly century-old house seems as fresh, radiant and of the moment as it must have appeared when Gray moved in. Much of the credit belongs to the chair of the project, Michael Likierman, an energetic and visionary English entrepreneur.

Likierman arrived in Paris in 1972 to launch TERENCE CONRAN’s Habitat store, and France has been his home ever since. In 1980, he cofounded a hugely successful international eyewear chain called Grand Optical, which he sold in 2006. By then, he and his late wife, Margaret, had moved to Menton, where they overhauled Les Colombières, a derelict though once grand house, and its gardens. Likierman was ready for a new project when he was approached to oversee the restoration of E-1027, just up the road.

In 2014, he took on the job. By mid-2022, restoration was essentially complete. The fabric of the house is now sound, and all of its original interior has been faithfully re-created. Likierman is proud and pleased that “everything seen in photographs taken in 1929 looks now as it did then.” 

A twilight view of the Baie de Roquebrune and Monte Carlo from behind Eileen Gray's E-1027.
A twilight view of the bay and the Mediterranean Sea beyond. Photo © Manuel Bougot

There is also a large visitors center and exhibition space in what was a former warehouse in the old-fashioned railway station, a short stroll from E-1027. The site is open to visitors from April through October, with tickets limited to four tour groups per day: two in English and two in French, each with a maximum of 15 members. Nearly 40,000 people have been so far. The tour covers the entire restoration project, including l’Étoile de Mer (a small bar next door to E-1027) and Le Corbusier’s Cabanon.

“A high note on which to retire?” I ask Likierman, now in his 80s.

Certainly not. “Are you aware that nearby Menton has fifteen exceptional private and public gardens, a number of them badly neglected?” he asks. “Yes and no, in that order,” I reply. And so I learn that Likierman has a new team already in place for the “worldwide campaign” he will launch next year. The gardens will be restored. The goal: a rare and splendid horticultural network, the Riviera Botanica.

E-1027’s full restoration has cost six million euros. Half the money came from the French state, to which it now belongs; half was the result of Likierman-led fundraising. He is still at it, telling me that donations are welcome to provide the final few touches before France’s Centre des monuments nationaux takes on full responsibility for maintaining as well as running the site at the end of 2023.

Making a donation to help save this monument to one of the 20th century’s GREAT DESIGN TALENTS is, of course, its own reward. But sitting there, looking out at the light dancing across sea and sky, with only rocks between you and the bay and with Gray’s wonderful house as shelter, is a pleasure that you’ll not soon forget. 

This story has been updated since its original publication, in January 2019.